Holy Thursday

During Lent, Catholics around the world prepare for Holy Week through fasting, prayer and alms giving with the goal of opening themselves up to God and growing deeper in their faith. On Palm Sunday, we begin Holy Week by marking Jesus' entry into Jerusalem.

On Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday of Holy Week, we read in the Gospel that Jesus is preparing - and instructing his disciples to prepare -for the sacrifices that are to come.

On Thursday of Holy Week, we mark the Passover meal or Last Supper. This Mass of the Lord's Supper marks the start of the Triduum (or "three days"). These three days - Holy Thursday through Easter Sunday are the "still days" of the church. During this time, church bells are not to be played and there is no music in mass. On Holy Thursday, the church celebrates the meal during which Jesus gave us the Eucharist (the sacrament in which we receive the Body and Blood of Christ). During this mass the parish celebratees the Eucharist and the Mandatum - Jesus' comman that his disciples "love one another as I have loved you" (Jn 13:34). You may know the Mandatum as the washing of the feet by the priest.

Following the service, there is a procession of the Eucharist to an altar of repose. There, the parish is asked to watch and pray with Jesus just as his apostles were asked to do on this long night.

In Rome, there is a tradition of not just going to one church for this adoration, but to many. Following the Holy Thursday masses, most of the churches around Rome remain open well into the evening (often closing at midnight) to allow the faithful to make a pilgrimage among many of the churches in Rome.

We began our evening at Sant' Andrea della Valle, a beautiful Baroque church which boasts the largest dome in Rome after Saint Peter's. Following the mass and a prayer in the side chapel, we headed past Sant'Agnese in Agone an absolutely beautiful church on Piazza Navona. We did not, however, stop to go inside since we were wanted to go to Santa Maria della Pace next (and frankly Sant'Agnese has a lot of steps and we were totting the stroller!). Unfortunately, Santa Maria was closed. Quite a disappointment.

Not to be deterred, we decided to heard toward Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza. Along the way we stopped at the little church that sits between it and Piazza Navona. (Regrettably, I cannot remember that church's name at the moment). Sant'Ivo is a remarkable, and very tiny, domed church by Borromini. If you've been to Rome you've likely seen the church's lantern wich has a twisted (and very dramatic) spiral atop it.

After leaving Sant'Ivo, we next stopped at San Carlo ai Catinari which was built to honor Cardinal Carlo Borromeo. (It is called ai Catinari because of the bowl-maker - catinari - shops in the area).

We decided to leave this central Rome area and head back toward Trastevere by way of Tiber island next. We crossed Ponte Cestio and arrived first at San Giovanni Calibita. This is the less well known of the two churches on Tiber island. It was built to honor a 5th century hermit. After another period of prayer - and a little foot stomping by Augustine - we left San Giovanni and walked a few paces to San Bartolomeo all'Isola. This church sits on teh island's central piazza and was built over the ruins of the temple of Aesculapius - the God of Medicine. (It was, then, quite intentional that the island has served for many years as a place of healing and medical care.)

After leaving San Bartolomeo, we cross the Ponte Fabricio the oldest original bridge over the Tiber still in use and landed in Trastevere. From here we walked to San Giovanni dei Genovesi. This church was built as the church of the Genoese for the many Genoese merchants their families who had their homes in this area. It was dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, the patron saint of Genoa.

Following this stop, we returned to one of our family's favorite churches - Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. As with the other churches we visited, Santa Cecilia was completely dark with the exception of the adoration chapel which was was glowing on the right side of the church (thanks to both candles and electric lights). We stayed for a few moments and prayed along side the several sisters who live at Santa Cecilia.

Finally, we left Santa Cecilia and made our last stop at Santa Maria dell'Orte. As with a number of the churches we saw, Santa Maria is rather non-descript from the outside but holds amazing treasures when you walk through the doors. (Regrettably, Santa Maria is often closed and this is one reason we wanted to take advantage of tonight to visit it). As you approach Santa Maria, you see a glow coming from the interior. This is caused by what must be 200 or more candles covering the altar. These candles alone illuminate the church and the power of that sight is truly magical.

In the end we saw eight churches tonight: (1) San Andrea, (2) church across from Sant'Ivo, (3) Sant'Ivo, (4) San Carlo, (4) San Giovanni, (5) San Bartolomeo, (6) San Giovanni, (7) Santa Cecilia, (8) Santa Maria dell'Orte. Each was beautiful, prayerful and solemn in its own way. And after the first few stops, the kids understood what we were doing and behaved for the second half of the tour. (Well, at least long enough to get a few prayers in at each place). It was wonderful to be able to spend those 4 hours walking and praying with so many in Rome. The streets were full of people, every church had parishioners already in prayer when we entered, and we passed scores of religious along our route. When you add in the fact that the weather not only remained beautiful, but may have warmed up along the route (it was probably high 60s), it was an amazing night. A great start to the Triduum.

We look forward to a solemn and prayerful Good Friday tomorrow. More updates on that to come.

The shots we took along the way tonight (shown above are):

1. Sant'Agnese as seen behind the main fountain in Piazza Navona.

2. San Andrea

3 and 4. Santa Maria della Pace

5 and 6. Sant'Ivo interior

7. San Bartolomeo

8. View of full moon from Ponte Fabricio

9. and 10. Santa Cecilia

11. Santa Maria dell'Orte